How to Choose a Mechanical Keyboard: A Beginner’s Guide to Layouts, Switches, and Features

Mechanical keyboards can feel confusing if you’re new. What’s the difference between a $40 keyboard and a $200 one? What are “switches”? What’s “hot-swap”? This page explains everything you need to know — in simple language — so you can choose the right keyboard for your needs.

Switches (the heart of a mechanical keyboard)

Each key has a “switch” underneath that determines how it feels and sounds.

Types of switches:

🎯 Tip: If you don’t know which one you like, try a switch tester (on Amazon)

Layouts (keyboard sizes)

Mechanical keyboards come in different sizes. You don’t always need a full-sized keyboard.

Layout	Description	Use Case
Full-size (100%)	All keys including number pad	Good for office work, spreadsheets
Tenkeyless (TKL)	No number pad	Saves space, still familiar
75%	Compact TKL with tight layout	Balance between compact and functional
65%	No function row, no numpad	Very compact, still has arrows
60%	Only main keys, no arrows or function row	Popular for gaming and minimal setups
40%	Only letters + modifiers	Niche, requires learning custom layers

🎯 Most people start with TKL or 65%. 60% is great if you want something very small.

Hot-Swappable Keyboards

“Hot-swap” means you can pull out switches and replace them without soldering.

• Try different switch types on the same keyboard
• Easy maintenance or upgrades
• Great for beginners who want to experiment

🎯 Most Keychron boards are hot-swappable. Avoid soldered PCBs unless you’re ready to modify with a soldering iron.

Keycaps

Keycaps are the plastic tops of the keys. They affect feel, sound, and look.

Materials:

• ABS:
  • Cheap, smooth
  • Can become shiny with use
• PBT:
  • More textured
  • Longer-lasting
  • Usually preferred

Legends (the letters on the keys):

• Laser-etched: basic, wears off over time
• Dye-sub: printed into the plastic, more durable
• Double-shot: two plastics molded together — best quality

Profiles (shapes of the keycaps):

• OEM, Cherry, SA, DSA, MT3… they all feel slightly different.
  • OEM / Cherry are standard
  • SA / MT3 are taller, retro-style
  • DSA is flat

🎯 Most people are fine with OEM or Cherry profile. You can always upgrade later.

Connectivity

• Wired (USB-C):
  • Most reliable
  • No battery needed
• Bluetooth:
  • Wireless
  • Some delay if not well-made
• 2.4GHz Wireless (with dongle):
  • Often faster and more stable than Bluetooth
  • Better for gaming

🎯 If you use multiple devices (e.g., Mac + iPad), Bluetooth is very convenient.

Software and Customization

Many mechanical keyboards are programmable. You can:

• Change what each key does (remap)
• Add macros (e.g., type a phrase with one key)
• Control RGB lighting
• Set up layers (e.g., Fn + key to add extra functions)

Common software:

• QMK / VIA – Open-source, powerful, works on many custom keyboards
• Keychron, Drop, Epomaker – Each has its own software

🎯 Some keyboards need no software – you program them directly using VIA.

Other terms you’ll see

• Stabilizers: help large keys (like Spacebar) feel smooth
• Plate-mounted vs PCB-mounted switches: how switches are held in place
• Gasket mount / tray mount: affects sound and typing feel
• Modding: lubing switches, swapping stabilizers, dampening sound – common in the hobby